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In the highland village of Ghorjomi, Friday prayers at the local mosque are always packed, according to Imam Tamaz Gorgadze.
Located in the remote valleys near the Turkish border, Ghorjomi and the surrounding Upper Adjara region represent a rare presence of Islam in one of the world’s most predominantly Christian countries.
“We live in Georgia, a country with multiple faiths,” Gorgadze shared with Reuters in June after the Eid ul-Adha prayers.
Georgia was the second nation to declare Christianity as its state religion around 319 AD, following nearby Armenia.
Today, it remains deeply Christian, with national identity intertwined with a long history of resistance against Muslim Persian and Turkic invasions.
In fact, some Adjara Muslims have been derogatorily labeled “Tatars,” referring to a Muslim ethnic group in Russia.
According to census figures, about 10% of Georgia’s population of 3.6 million identifies as Muslim, primarily from the mostly Shi’ite Azerbaijani community.
However, ethnically Georgian Muslims, particularly found in Adjara, are a rare and often controversial sight in a nation whose flag features five Christian crosses.
The influential Georgian Orthodox Church is regarded as a guardian of national identity, and for many, being a church member is seen as essential to being truly Georgian.
Nonetheless, the Georgian population in Upper Adjara, who converted to Islam during their time as part of the Ottoman Empire, see no contradiction in embracing both their faith and national pride.
“We take pride in being Georgian. We share a common history,” remarked Tariel Nakaidze, a local resident and the head of the Georgian Muslims Union.
Still, Nakaidze pointed out that Georgian Muslims face societal pressures reminiscent of the anti-religious campaigns during the Soviet era.
“During the Soviet period in Georgia, both Christians and Muslims had to live dual lives. You presented as an atheist to the outside world, but believed in your faith in private,” he said.
“Regrettably, after the Soviet Union fell apart, that struggle has shifted to pressures from Orthodox Christianity.”
Islam in Adjara carries distinctly Georgian characteristics. Integral to local Muslim life are the unique wooden mosques of the region.
These mosques are often protected from harsh mountain winters by corrugated iron on the exterior, while the interiors boast intricate woodwork that blends traditional Ottoman and Georgian artistic styles.
Approximately 100 kilometers (62 miles) away from Ghorjomi lies Batumi, the capital of Adjara and Georgia’s second-largest city.
A lively seaside resort known for its casinos and nightclubs catering to mostly former Soviet tourists, Batumi’s mosques see an influx of worshippers from across the Turkish border, just 20 kilometers (12 miles) away, in addition to many tourists from the Middle East.
Due to space constraints, many congregants find themselves praying on the streets outside.
Imam Tamaz Geladze has been seeking to expand his modest mosque for years. While he has received approval from local authorities, the project remains stuck in bureaucratic red tape.
Regardless, Geladze appreciates Georgia’s history of tolerance towards religious minorities.
“We have coexisted peacefully for centuries, fostering friendships and open dialogue,” he said.
“The diversity of Georgia is a treasure,” he concluded.
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