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PARIS: On May 16, 1975, Japan’s Junko Tabei made history as the first woman to summit Mount Everest.
Now, nearly five decades later, the iconic mountain is preparing to witness the milestone of its one thousandth female ascent.
Climbing to the 8,849-meter (29,032-foot) peak has predominantly been a male-dominated achievement.
As of May 2025, women had successfully reached the summit 962 times compared to men’s 11,955 ascents, based on an analysis by the AFP of data from the Himalayan Database.
Breaking Barriers
When Tabei reached the top, just 38 men had done so before her.
She and her all-female team faced challenges acquiring sponsorship for their expedition, often being advised to focus on family instead.
Reflecting on her experience, Tabei wrote, “All men limit our possibilities, and I refuse to be limited.”
Just 11 days after Tabei’s ascent, a Tibetan woman named Phantog summited from the opposite side and initially believed she had been the first until her descent revealed Tabei’s earlier achievement.
In her journal, Tabei laid out her future goals: to conquer K2, the second-highest peak, and continue her work with a scientific journal.
Women in Guiding Roles
Since Tabei’s historic climb, 870 women from 85 different countries have reached the summit, some multiple times.
The United States, India, and China, after Nepali climbers, account for the most men reaching the top—contributing to 39 percent of female ascents.
The majority of Sherpas, the Nepali guides accompanying climbers on Everest, are male.
Although half of the male summits originate from Nepal, only 9% of the female ascents do, totaling 90 climbs by 66 different women.
Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, who summited in 2012, is currently the sole female certified Nepali guide who obtained an international diploma in 2018.
She stated, “This is a tough field, especially for women. I’ve heard people say it’s not appropriate for girls and that I wouldn’t find work.”
Before her achievement, Pasang Lhamu became the first Nepali woman to summit in 1993. Tragically, she perished during her descent while assisting a sick companion.
She has since become a national icon, with the trail from Everest’s base camp beginning at an arch dedicated to her memory.
Another notable woman, Lhakpa Sherpa, who reached the summit in 2000, currently holds the female record for ascents, logging 10 summits by May.
Summiting Without Oxygen
In 1988, Lydia Bradey of New Zealand became the first woman to ascend Everest without supplemental oxygen, a common aid for altitude conditions.
Bradey undertook her climb solo while her expedition’s other members returned to Kathmandu, casting doubt on her success.
Concerned about violating her climbing permit, she chose not to officially report her accomplishment, although it was recognized in later years.
Among all climbers, only 229 ascents, or less than 1%, have occurred without oxygen support. Bradey is one of just ten women on this exclusive list.
Preparation and Risk Management
“Climbing without supplemental oxygen is a different challenge,” noted Billi Bierling, director of the Himalayan Database. “Women may approach these risks with more caution.” She emphasized that women climbers are often more meticulously prepared.
On average, 66% of the roughly one hundred women who attempt the climb each year succeed, compared to 75% of men. However, women’s fatality rate is notably lower; a woman dies every 153 climbs, whereas a man perishes every 70 attempts.
While women still constitute a minority among Everest summiteers, their ascent ratio is increasing—from one woman for every 16 men in the 2000s to one for every 10 men today.
“Many women today are single, child-free, and financially stable, enabling them to pursue climbs of 8,000-meter peaks,” Bierling added.
The cost of reaching Everest can range from $45,000 to $200,000.
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